For the Piaroa, Autana is the stump of the tree that once bore all the fruits of the world. It is a column of quartzite 700 metres high with a cave running clean through it near the top. This is not a summit trip — the tower itself is a climbers’ objective — but the approach by river and the walk to the lookout are among the finest things in Amazonas.
Day by day
Day 1 — Puerto Ayacucho to the río Autana
Road to Samariapo, then hours of bongo down the Orinoco and up the Sipapo to the mouth of the Autana. Hammocks in a Piaroa community.
Day 2 — Up the río Autana
Navigation past settlements and the raudal de Merey to the foot of the tepuy, with the column ahead all afternoon.
Day 3 — The Wahari lookout
Four or five hours there and back through hot jungle on the flanks, facing the tower and its cave.
Day 4 — Return to Puerto Ayacucho
Downriver to Samariapo and the road back.
Make it yours
Extend with Lago Leopoldo, add days in the Piaroa communities, or fly in and out to save the two road legs.
